🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.